Ikat fabric is a type of textile design created by using a specific dying procedure. Before weaving the cloth, resist dyeing parts of the yarns is used to create Ikat. To know more about Ikat, check out our blog about Ikat dyeing. The Telia Rumal from Andhra Pradesh is one of the most unusual of all Indian ikat weaving forms. The yarn is tie-dyed and treated with a specific oil to give the fabric a distinctive finish. In most cases, this is a double ikat, which means that both the warp and weft threads are dyed with designs.
History of Telia Ikat
The Indian subcontinent has always been a powerhouse of artistic creativity, particularly in the realm of textiles. Their development has been profoundly impacted by ancient Indian writings, religions, and mythology. Telia Rumal translates to "Oily Handkerchief". The craft dates back to the early nineteenth century in Andhra Pradesh. The skills, which started in Chirala, eventually extended to the Nalgonda area. It is primarily practised by a few weavers in Nalgonda district's Puttapaka village. Owing to its proximity to the sea, Chirala was able to sell keffiyehs and turbans to Africa and Arabia.
The process of making Telia Ikat
Telia Rumal is a complex and time-consuming double ikat weave. The yarn is oil-treated, as the name implies. Goat faeces, castor bean ashes, and oil are among the items used to cure the yarn. Telia Rumal is distinguished by its geometric designs that follow a grid, which are created using the double Ikat method. The pattern is initially sketched out on graph paper, with specifics like thread count and colour scheme determined. The warp and weft yarns are indicated on the frame. By tying cotton or rubber threads together, you may create a resist design in a variety of colours. After that, the knotted yarn is coloured in a bath containing equal amounts of alum, which is used as a mordant. In geometrical patterns, just three colours are commonly used: red, black, and white. The warp and weft must be precisely transformed to an aesthetic design while weaving a telia rumal, which takes a lot of practice and expertise. The greater the number of themes, the more complicated it is to weave. To obtain the right shade of red, the dyeing procedure takes two to three hours at 60 degrees Celsius, and the yarn must be immersed for twelve hours. The yarn is then properly strained, cleaned, and dried the next day.
Patterns
Weavers from Telia Rumal employ a range of images based on square sub-divisions. Dots, squares, crosses, chevrons, rectangles, and other step patterns are all popular. Initially, the patterns were simply geometric, but from the 1930s, figurative motifs of lions, elephants, birds, clocks, and aeroplanes, which needed more advanced weaving abilities, were popular.
Changes observed in Telia Ikat over the years
Telia Rumal has had a lot of ups and downs in her life. Nonetheless, it remains one of the most dynamic and essential parts of Andhra Pradesh's current Ikat style. The patterns were woven with the double ikat method at first. The master weavers, however, incorporated these designs in the single ikat method to preserve fine culture alive and increase access. Sarees, dupattas, and yardages are woven with a blend of vat and Naaptol dyes. The number of motifs has risen from two to four to twelve, and there are now thirty-six with numerous colour options. The majority of Telia Rumals have been mercerized. Mercerisation is a yarn completion method that involves chemically treating the yarn to improve its strength, gloss, and colour absorption.
Telia fabric cost
What started with a handkerchief has evolved into a diverse assortment of textile items of various qualities. Saris, loincloths, yardage material, and piece products such as handkerchiefs, table cloths, and bedsheets, all made of coarse or medium cotton or inexpensive staple yarn, up fine mercerized cotton or silk, are included. A cotton Telia sari costs approximately ₹8,000, while a silk one can cost up to ₹20,000. A telia bag can cost anywhere from ₹1000 and ₹3000 or more. A telia kurta might cost anywhere between ₹3000 to ₹23000. Telia bedsheets range in price from ₹1500 to ₹5000.
The demise of the booming manufacturing centres in Chirala and Pochampalli after independence was due to a drop in exports. It was hampered by a lack of demand, long manufacturing processes, and limited market backing. It also suffered from a lack of capacity to react to changing client expectations and lifestyles. It is not widely accessible in stores given because of its restricted manufacturing for niche markets. As a result, today's younger generation is unaware of this textile legacy, and Telia Rumal goods are in short supply. The Telia Rumal is now only found in a few villages in the Nalgonda district of Andhra Pradesh, which can be counted on one hand.
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