Textiles are cultural artefacts that reflect the social history of the areas from which they come. Ikat travelled from Indonesia to India. Textiles in India differ by region, not just in terms of material or cloth used, but also in pattern. Sambalpuri Ikat is one of several, and it has long been manufactured in large quantities in the western areas of Orissa. It takes its name from the time when western Orissa was affectionately known as Sambalpur. Although it is commonly recognised as Sambalpuri Ikat in the designer world, it is still referred to as “Bandha” by rural artisan groups, which mean tie.
History of Sambalpuri Ikat
The clothes of the magnificent statues in Konark Temple bear a resemblance to Odishan ikat. The beautifully patterned curtains mirroring the ikat cloth on Ganga and Jamuna statues may also be found in Saintala's Chandi Mandir. The art of sambalpuri ikat is supposed to have been transferred to Western Odisha with the Bhulia people, who were said to have left Northern India after the Chouhan Empire fell to the Mughals in 1192 AD. Since then, and until 1925, this craft flourished in Western Odisha with a limited number of designs and consisted largely of saris worn by Odia women in a few traditional vegetable colours. Not unexpectedly, weavers were among the hardest hit during the 1865–66 famine, culminating in a large-scale exodus to southwest Bengal to seek employment as manual labourers. This issue was exacerbated when the discovery of chemical dyes in the latter quarter of the nineteenth century increased the difference between handicrafts and factory-produced items.
The warp and weft threads are precisely measured in Ikat, and the resist is produced by tying individual yarns or bundles of yarns with a strong wrapping applied in the desired pattern. To prevent dyes from entering tightly tied bundles, wax is used. After that, the yarns are coloured. Arns are hand-tied and coloured. It is a difficult procedure that demands not just patience but also fine motor abilities. It is a labour-intensive product made on archaic pit looms using the three shuttle weaving technique and the extra heald shaft design. Bandha and additional thread work are combined in Bomkai sarees. This is known as kapta jala, and it relates to the dobby mechanism.
Unlike other Ikat crafts, which show a variety of wave-like designs, Sambalpuri Ikat contains defined motifs produced via accuracy and patience by experienced artisans. The majority of the patterns are cotton-based, allowing the colour to penetrate deeper and making any garment made with it suited for all weathers. The Sambalpur Vichitrapuri sari includes an extra warp pattern on the body and an extra weft pattern on the pallu, and the shakarapara patterns are in double ikat with squares of different colours: white, red, and black. Weavers create a wide variety of themes, including deer, elephant, duck, and lion, as well as floral designs. The Konark wheel and Kumbha or shrine motifs are particularly popular.
The sambalpuri sari is unusually weaved in the end piece (pallu) with a variety of clashing colours and motifs. The sari's look is associated with simplicity and has a tribal touch to it. Today, however, the sari may be seen in a variety of patterns and colours while yet keeping its uniqueness. The warps are weaved in such a way that the finished item is multicoloured.
Soon after independence, the government established several state organisations to promote and sell Odisha's textiles and crafts. The mid-1990s were a commercial high point for Sambalpuris. Exceptionally patterned sarees created for international exhibits might take months, if not a year, to finish. They are weaved by rural weavers, yet the patterns are owned by master weavers. Ikat is a naturally strong craft that is immune to heavy and quick wear and tear, giving it an advantage over other crafts. Renowned designers of the industry have effectively fashioned this flexible craft into dresses, kurtas, jackets, stoles, business suits, and the famed Sambalpuri sarees. Ikat is popular for creating business casuals, and even footwear, jewellery, and purses due to its thick texture and fascinating designs.
Price of Sambalpuri Ikat fabric
A sambalpuri cotton saree constructed with coarse thread costs between 500 and 2,000 rupees. 5,000 to 15,000 rupees for more elaborately designed and better cotton sarees. The silk ikat sarees start at 8,000 rupees. Sambalpuri bed sheets range from somewhere around 3000 to 6000 rupees.
After two or three simple washes, use a light detergent.
Do not soak the fabric in detergent over an extended time.
Brushing or lashing a silk saree will cause the fabric or zari to rip.
Wash the pallu and border of the sari separately at first.
If stains appear, quickly wash them with cold water.
Dry clean if the fabric has stubborn stains.
Should not wrap the damp sari with any clothing that might discolour.
Chlorine bleach should not be used on silk since it turns fabric yellow.
Mechanization has failed in the instance of ikat as compared to manual art. The weaver's judgement and the gentle and mystical touch of their hand generate such perfection in the patterns of the borders and end display that mechanical reproduction is unattainable.
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